Learn to Play Guitar

even a novice can learn enough to play along with most pop-chart hits

Lesson 3

Get Playing: What Do You Need?

A brief look at the hardware available to the modern guitarist.

A Bit of Both?

OK, I lied — there is a third category of guitar, the electric-acoustic. As the term implies, this instrument can be played either acoustically or electrically. Note, however, that although this may sound like a compromise between the two, it really isn’t. Such instruments tend to be either hollow-body electrics, which give a slightly different (but nonetheless traditional) electric-guitar sound, or they aim to amplify the tones of an acoustic guitar. They won’t cover both bases satisfactorily. For an in-depth look at the Ovation electroacoustic guitar, see page 66 of the K.I.S.S. Guide to Playing Guitar.

Electric or Acoustic?

If you want hands-on experience during this course, you’ll need a guitar. That stands to reason, really. In this lesson, we’ll be looking at the kinds of guitars that are used in different musical genres. When you walk into a music store, it will become immediately evident that there are quite a lot of choices out there. So what’s the difference between one guitar and another?

Broadly speaking, there are two types of guitar: acoustic and electric. The distinction is a simple one. You can pick up an acoustic guitar, strum a chord or pick a note, and it will be immediately audible. All acoustic guitars work along the same basic principles. You strike a string, which causes the string to vibrate. These vibrations are converted into sound waves by the guitar’s body (the soundbox), which vibrates with the strings. Do the same thing to an electric guitar, though, and you won’t hear much noise at all. That’s because an electric needs to be plugged into an external amplifier and loudspeaker for it to be heard properly.

Acoustic Guitars

Within those two broad categories, there are other subdivisions. Some acoustic guitars are built to use steel strings; others are designed for use with nylon strings. Each has its own unique sound and use. Classical music is almost always played on nylon-strung guitars, as are flamenco and most Latin and jazz styles. Steel-string guitars are more commonly used in pop, rock, country, and folk music.

clip_image001
A Martin Orchestra Model guitar, introduced by the C.F. Martin Company in 1929. This instrument featured a 14-fret neck and was designed for increased range (photo courtesy of the Dorling Kindersley Picture Library).

Electric Guitars

When most people think of electric guitars, they think of a classic rock or pop instrument such as the Fender Stratocaster. This is an example of a solid-body electric guitar, so-called because the body of the instrument is sculpted from a solid piece of wood. Since these guitars are solid, they have no hollow acoustic chamber — that’s why you need an amp to hear them.

clip_image002This Fender Stratocaster dates from the late 1950s (photo courtesy of the Dorling Kindersley Picture Library).

So What Should I Get?

The choice is yours: it depends entirely on the type of music you want to play.

Getting to Know the Guitar

Guitars are not the most complicated musical instruments. Nevertheless, it’s a good idea to get to know the component parts. You never know when you’ll need to refer to them by name. (And imagine the embarrassment of going into your local music store to ask for a replacement “winding thing.”)

For those of you curious about the workings of the electric guitar, Page 59 of K.I.S.S. Guide to Playing Guitar has a detailed diagram of an electric guitar with all of its different parts labeled. The same names apply to an acoustic guitar, except that an acoustic will have a hollow sound chamber.

Choosing a Guitar

Choosing a guitar can be a nerve-wracking experience, so it’s a good idea to try to involve someone who already knows about them, especially if you plan to buy a used model. Used guitars can be an ideal way to start out, as long as you take certain precautions.

How much should you spend? That’s easy: AS MUCH AS YOU CAN REASONABLY AFFORD. Compromise can be a false economy. A cheap model may save you money, but may sound poor and be difficult to play. When you are starting out, there is no greater motivation than hearing yourself sound good. The better your guitar, the more likely that is to happen.

Quality Checks

Before you buy a guitar, make sure that it passes some basic quality control checks. For most new instruments this ought to be a formality, but second-hand guitars can be more questionable.

Intonation

  • The guitar should remain in tune everywhere along the fingerboard. This is called intonation. If you play a note on 12th fret, it should always be exactly one octave higher than the note played on the open string. If the notes are not perfectly in tune, then the intonation is poor. This means that the guitar will gradually go out of tune the further you play along the neck. This can be fixed, but only by someone who knows how to set up guitars. If you find a guitar in that kind of state in a store, it might be a good idea to shop elsewhere.

Warping

  • If the fingerboard is curved or warped, the intonation will be bad, and the guitar will be difficult to play. To test it out, hold the guitar as if you were aiming a rifle, and align your eye with the top surface of the fingerboard. It should appear perfectly even. If the top of the fingerboard appears to be twisted, put it down and walk away. A warped fingerboard can only be repaired by fitting a new neck.
  • Check the side of the neck in a similar way. You are likely to notice a very slight curvature halfway down the neck between the 7th and 9th frets. This is normal, but be cautious if the curve is extreme.

Action

  • A guitar’s action is determined by the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. If your guitar’s action is low, your fingers don’t have to press down quite as hard on the fingerboard. This makes the guitar easier to play. If the action is too low, though, you may get fret buzz when you hold down a note. PLAY EVERY SINGLE NOTE ON THE GUITAR BEFORE YOU MAKE A DECISION.

Sustain

  • The length of time a note lasts before it fades out is called sustain. As Spinal Tap fans will know, sustain is greatly prized by guitarists. Play every note on the fingerboard to ensure that the notes sustain about the same. On some instruments, you will experience “dead” notes (or wolf notes as they are properly called) where the sustain is dramatically reduced. This is invariably the result of a guitar’s natural frequencies. Avoid.

Winders, Knobs, and Buttons

  • Finally, take a careful look at the hardware. The machine heads — the tuning mechanisms on the headstock at the top of the neck — control the tension of each string. If they turn too easily the strings may slip, sending the guitar out of tune.
  • On electric guitars, make sure you twiddle around with the tone and volume controls while playing a note. If you hear any buzzing or popping noises, keep your money.

No Amplifier?

As a first-time guitarist, the further expense of an amplifier can easily push you over your budget. A slightly unsatisfactory compromise is to use your stereo system as an amp. To do this, you’ll need to ensure that your stereo can take external connections. Newer models usually have an auxiliary input that can be used for pretty much anything. Since most stereo systems use RCA connections, you’ll need to get a hold of an adapter or a guitar cable that has a normal guitar jack on one end and an RCA plug on the other.

Electronics

Now let’s take a look at some additional needs facing the electric guitarist. If you have an acoustic guitar, this page doesn’t really apply to you. Read on, though — some of this stuff might be useful in the future.

Choosing an Amplifier

If you have an electric guitar, you need an amplifier and loudspeaker in order to be heard. You can either buy the amplifier and speaker separately or as a part of a combined unit, known as a combo. An amplifier not only boosts the guitar’s volume, it also affects the quality of the sound, so try out a variety of different types before you make your choice. Tube-driven amplifiers are more popular among guitarists than their solid-state (or transistor) counterparts. Tube amps sound much nicer, but they are usually more expensive.

Try to think ahead about what you ultimately want to do with your amplifier, or at least how loud you intend to play. Wattage is the measurement of an amplifier’s loudness. If you want to perform on stage you are likely to need a capability of between 50 and 100 watts. High output doesn’t necessarily guarantee high quality, though.

If you are buying a separate amplifier head, you will need a separate loudspeaker. These can vary enormously in size from single 10-inch cones to mighty cabinets containing four interconnected 12-inch speakers. If you go the latter route, make sure that you have sufficient room to store it. And give a thought to getting it in and out of your home: do you really want to have to haul it up and down twelve flights of stairs every time you play a gig or go to a rehearsal?

Used Amplifiers

Just as if you were buying a used car, look out for signs that a used amplifier has been badly treated by a previous owner. If the covering is filthy, battered, or covered in beer stains, who knows what demons might be lurking inside. If possible, remove the grille that covers and protects the loudspeaker to check that the cone is not worn, torn, or dented, since that would adversely affect the sound.

Listen out for excess buzzing or hiss before you plug in your guitar. These sounds may mean that some of the circuitry is worn or damaged. Next, test all of the switches, volume knobs, and tone controls. Make sure that they do all of the things they are supposed to without making unpleasant clicks or crackling noises.

As a final test, unplug the guitar, but leave the amplifier switched on. Now stamp your foot on the ground right next to the where the amplifier is standing. If you hear any electrical noises as a result, there may be loose valves or circuitry, which could eventually cause problems.

Electronic Effects

We’ve all heard the strange and exotic sounds that can be conjured out of an electric guitar. This is invariably the result of electronic sound effects like distortion, reverberation, and echo. You can create these effects by using external plug-in effects, which take the form of foot pedals or rack-mounted units.

Here are the most common guitar effects. You can hear each one by clicking your mouse on the appropriate button:

(NOTE: Lesson 3, tracks 1 to 7)

  • Guitar sound bite: reverberation
  • Guitar sound bite: delay
  • Guitar sound bite: chorus
  • Guitar sound bite: echo
  • Guitar sound bite: pitch shift
  • Guitar sound bite: fuzz
  • Guitar sound bite: wah-wah

Although these effects can play a major part in the sound of some modern guitarists, it may be a good idea to limit their use when you first begin playing. For one thing, you’ll find it hard enough getting your fingers to move to the correct positions without the distraction of multiple flanged echoes coming out of the loudspeaker. Secondly, it’s always a good idea to use the cleanest sound possible when you are practicing your basic playing techniques — it’s the only way you can hear with absolute certainty how you are progressing.

Moving Forward

OK, that’s your equipment sorted out for you. Next time we’ll take a look at the most effective ways of holding the guitar and techniques for getting your instrument in tune.

Assignment : Hit Those Stores

This assignment is simple: HIT THOSE STORES.

If you want to find out more about guitars, amplifiers, and effects, take a look at the following sections of my book, The K.I.S..S Guide to Playing Guitar:

  • Guitars (pages 27-39)
  • Guitars and musical genres (pages 41-49)
  • How guitars are made and how they work (pages 51-69)
  • Amplifiers (pages 299-309)
  • Effects (pages 311-321)

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